Jiu Long, China 2007
I have arrived in Hong Kong finally ofter a month in India it's like coming home for me as I was working here last fall.
I got the bus in to town and I remembered what it was like the first time I arrived in Hong Kong. If there is anything to learn from this: always do new things and you will learn lots.
I was meeting Richy a friend of mine from University and going climbing with him. I met him a day later than planned because we mist each other at our meeting place!
I took him climbing in HK and met some of my old friends who I'm working with next month. We went shopping and climbing for a few days then we got a ferry to Nansha main land china and met my friend Cosmin, who had taken me to climb there last year.
We got there and spent 2 days sport climbing. Meshel from New Zealand was with us and her boy friend Troy. Meshel is Juley’s sister who came with me to Jiu Long (九龙) and Yangshuo (阳朔) last year. They both worked with us in Hong Kong for Asia Pacific Adventure.
Cosmin left us for the next 5 days and we staid in the Village of Ming Jing. Its about 1 hours walk from most of the climbing sites. It is a small village with not much tourist infrastructure. The local people can not speak any English and we can not speak any Chinese! They are very friendly but they have not seen many western people before.
The first day without Cosmin it rained in the morning so we got up late and went slack lining in the local park. We let some of the local children have a go. We also found a nice looking trad line to attempt the next day.
Me and Rich get up and go for the new line. It starts off easy and Rich leads the first pitch. I led the second one which was more difficult and exposed. Rich leads the final pitch which has a nasty step on a run out. He completed it making a good job of the problem. We toped out and let off a fire cracker. We sat and looked over the landscape below. The flat ground ran away in all directions, with rocky peeks in there thousands rearing up out of the ground. The horizon was a distend white Haze that seems to hang over these parts. Like a delicate fog sometimes thick and sometimes clearing to reveal glimpses of the views that one may have ones had. Now this strange landscape lies hidden from view. Covered in the clouds from China’s grate industrial power houses that supply the West with all its things.
We sat for a wile talking over our route and looking at the view. On the way up in the morning we had found our path blocked by a big pile of thorny branches, we wonder if they had been put there to stop us going. As we climbed we had herd more fire cracker than normal, and did not know if it was because of our climbing. The local people let off fire crackers to scare away evil spirits. We could see many people standing in the street below watching us. We wondered what kind of reception we would get when we returned. Would the locals be angry at us climbing their tower? We finally decided to go back down the back of the tower over limestone pavement and then into the bush like jungle the covers most of that hills around hear. This turned out to be maybe more difficult than the climb. The bush here has many spiky plants and the ground is steep, uneven and full of pits and hollows. We know there are snakes and many biting insects but I think we were making far to much noise to come across any! Rich decided that one of the most important rales of adventure climb was: “When on a difficult decent make shore your partner is in front of you. So he brakes the trail and meet any snakes and danger things first”.
I broke trail to start with but finally managed to get Richy to do it for a bit. We finally got down with may more scratches and scrapes from the decent than from the climb. So if you want to climb new routes in sub tropical Asia then be prepared for loos dusty sharp rock, many biting insects, lots of sharp spiky plants, warm humid temperatures and confused but friendly local people. We came back down into the village and everyone was still friendly. We decided to buy some ice creams and sat on the roof top balcony of the house that we were staying in eating it. The next day we climbed some sport routes at Yellow Brick Wall a place that I seam to keep going back to. It was very hot and we did not get very much climbing dun. On the way back we go for a swim in the river. It was grate to feel cold again.
The day after me and Rich went back to Yellow Brick Wall to try and climb a corner that I had wanted to try since I had come to Jiu Long last year. The first part had already been climbed on Trad and was not to difficult. Half of that pitch was scrambling through jungle and for some reason I got through easily and Rich got cut and scratched and broke the mike of his camcorder. When he got to me at the belay he was not in a good mood and if it was up to him he would have gone back down.
I continued leading and traversed on through, to a big peace of calcite that grew out of the cliff like a peace of bracket fungus on a tree. I followed this to a thin corner crack and slab to reach a small ledge to belay on. It was a much nicer climb now although still very dirty. The start of the next pitch was much steeper but soon it turned into slab again. I then found a difficult crux on a bit of a run out, climbing up on pinches on a peace of calcite. I took a long time to decide to do it but climbed it in the end. When I got to the top I had run out of big Cams and left a smaller one as a Chock. I climbed into a small cave nestled in the rock and lay there breathing heavily. I found a good thread and put some more gear above it. I belayed Richy up and he sat in the back of the cave that was crumbling on all sides. He looked very hot and like he wanted to go down now, but did not say anything. I was very keen to try and finish the route as the gear was finely looking pretty good. I climbed up and tried 3 times to make the last 4 or 5 moves to the easy ground. I could do them but the rock was so broken and loos I thought I might pull off a very big bolder of I continued. The sun was also on us now and we had know water. We abseiled off. I left a peace of farmers rope I got for 5 RNB in the village market in the morning. I think it was made of old plastic bags! Not nylon like I thought when I got it!
The next day Richy left to continue his travels so I had a day here by my self. I walked around, used the internet and eat lots of food. Cosmin came the day after bringing the top climber from Romania with him. We climbed the cave roof I had wanted for a long time in the dark and then did some sport the next day at Bamboo crag and Small Temple crag. then we drove back to Guangzhou and I left for Yangshuo that night on a bus. That was the end of my second climbing trip of 2007.